Hawaii Travelogues - Part 5 of 7
A Whale of a Tail
The North Pacific Humpback whales migrate almost 3500 miles from Alaska to Hawaiian waters during the winter months. They begin their migration from the Gulf of Alaska in early fall and go to Japan, Baja and Hawaii. Whale watching season in Maui starts Dec 15th but sea creatures don’t follow man made calendars. This year the kohala (whale) showed up more than 2 weeks early, which was good news for us as we got to see them during our visit. Gina, our guide on the whale watching raft from the Pacific Whale Foundation, was super excited about their early migration this year.
The 4 islands of Maui County (Maui, Lanai, Molokai and Kahoolawe) form a shallow ocean basin on the west coast of Maui. It is only around 300 ft deep vs the 1-3 mile deep Pacific beyond this area. Whales come to mate, give birth and nurture their young in the warm Hawaiian waters (around 75 deg), till they are strong enough to go back to Alaska in summer. The humpback whale is so huge that one would think that it can have no predators. But orcas apprantely have a hankering for humpback meat, and will attack the weak and baby humpbacks. Scientists have noticed orca bite marks on juevenile whales that come to Maui. Maui waters provide a predator free environment for the baby whales. However, unlike Alaskan waters, Maui waters are not a good food source (krill or phytoplankton), so the new moms lose almost a quarter of their body weight while nurturing its young. They must go back to Alaska to regain their blubber weight. The calves spend almost almost a year with their moms learning survival skills.
We were on a small 30 man raft, with just 7 passengers, so there was great viewing angles for all on board. The guides look for the whales by the telltale blowholes they make and its vapor residue. They try not to go too close to the whales so as to not disturb them. They whales are so huge that if they decide to jump, you can’t really miss seeing them. Another way they try to spot whales is to see if other boats have stopped. Sure enough, the ferry to Lanai was standing perfectly still, so our raft headed there. In a few minutes, there was the telltale blowhole - the pirate of old would say “Thar She Blows!”. People on board started getting excited (including moi).
Whales don’t really like physical interaction ie: they don’t really hang about together or socialize and are pretty much loners. When 2 whales hang out, its because it just happened - kind of like by association. We saw 2 such whales jumping out of the water. One did a full breech jump. That was a cool sight. Then they disappeared under the water for nearly 15 minutes. Then another sighting, this time a tail. Each whale has unique markings on its tale and that’s how scientists track them. Its really a Whale of a Tail. The two were gone again for another 14-15 minutes. These guys sure can hold their breath for a long time. The guide told us that the longest recorded time is 45 minutes. We saw them jump a couple more times. They kind of wandered off after that.
Whales do have a nifty way of communicating over enormous distances with their cool whale songs. Kind of like having friends on facebook - remote social interaction without the social anxiety of physical interaction. Scientists are still trying to figure out the patterns in their singing behaviors. Its only the males that sings but it does not always seem to mating related. Sometimes all males will sing the same song and it keeps changing as the season progresses. Gina put a underwater mike into the water so that we could hear the sounds they were making. Whales don’t really have vocal cords so they produce sounds by pushing air through valves in their respiratory system. The song is somewhat eerie yet interesting in its singsong quality - its like pieces of a symphony put together. It would be fascinating to learn more about the makeup of their communication system.
The next 2 whales we saw were a mom and baby - Gina kept saying that someone brought their whale karma with them on the boat, to get to see a baby this early in the season. Maybe that's my whale karma! Baby whales can hold their breath only for around 2 minutes so it was bound to come up more often, which really worked to our advantage. The mom is very protective of her baby - hangs around just underneath even though she does not need to come up. A couple of times both jumped up together with the baby on our side, so that we could see both. Too cool! The mother whale kind of likes to tuck the baby whale protectively under its fin when swimming. A baby whale is some 15-20 feet long so is easily visible to the naked eye.
Overall a very satisfying whale watching experience for a first timer like me.
Thar She Blows!
Fountain at Sea
Thar She Blows!
Blowhole, a Whale beneath
Humpbacks in Maui Seas
Migrate from Alaska
to warm Hawaiian Seas
Mate and breed calves
Frolic on the beach (not really!)
Mom and baby
Learn survival skills
Others hang about
Singing their symphony
Hawaii Travelogue 2012
Part 1 - Aloha Maui
Part 2 - I Survived the Road to Hana
Part 3 - West Maui
Part 4 - North Beaches and Watermen
Part 5 - Whale of a Tail
Part 6 - Humuhunukunukuapua'a and the Coral Reef
Part 7 - Living Aloha
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